Abies balsamea - Sapin baumier

Famille: Pinaceae, Genre: Abies
Arbre à croissance lente et à feuilles persistantes (15m de haut par 5m de large).

Habitat

Exposition
Toutes expositions
Vent
N'aime pas le vent
Humidité
Humidité moyenne.
Sol
Tous sols. Tolère les sols très argileux.
pH
Sol acide ou calcaire
Rusticité
Zone 2
Habitat originel
Low swampy grounds where it is often the major component of forests[82]. Also found on well-drained hillsides[82].
Origine géographique
North-eastern N. America - Newfoundland to Virginia, west to Alberta, Michigan and Ohio.

Dangers connus

  • The oleoresin (Canada balsam) is reported to produce dermatitis when applied as perfume [222, 269].
  • The foliage has also induced contact dermatitis [269].

Comestibilité

  • Aubier - cuit .
  • It is usually dried, ground into a powder and then used as a thickening in soups etc or mixed with cereals when making bread [105, 177].
  • Fir bark is a delight to chew in winter or early spring, slightly mucilaginous and sweetish, better raw than cooked [269].
  • Another report says that it is an emergency food and is only used when all else fails [183].
  • An aromatic resinous pitch is found in blisters in the bark [64].
  • When eaten raw it is delicious and chewy [101, 183].
  • Another report says that the balsam or pitch, in extreme emergency, forms a highly concentrated, though disagreeable, food [269].
  • An oleoresin from the pitch is used as a flavouring in sweets, baked goods, ice cream and drinks [183].
  • Tips of young shoots are used as a tea substitute [177, 183].

Usages médicinaux

  • The resin obtained from the balsam fir (see 'Uses notes' below) has been used throughout the world and is a very effective antiseptic and healing agent .
  • It is used as a healing and analgesic protective covering for burns, bruises, wounds and sores [213, 222, 226].
  • It is also used to treat sore nipples[213] and is said to be one of the best curatives for a sore throat [245].
  • The buds, resin, and/or sap are used in folk remedies for treating cancers, corns, and warts [269].
  • The resin is also antiscorbutic, diaphoretic, diuretic, stimulant and tonic [4, 171, 222].
  • It is used internally in propriety mixtures to treat coughs and diarrhoea, though taken in excess it is purgative [238].
  • A warm liquid of the gummy sap was drunk as a treatment for gonorrhoea [212].
  • A tea made from the leaves is antiscorbutic [4, 171].
  • It is used in the treatment of coughs, colds and fevers [222].
  • The leaves and young shoots are best harvested in the spring and dried for later use [238].
  • This plant was widely used medicinally by various North American Indian tribes [257].
  • The resin was used as an antiseptic healing agent applied externally to wounds, sores, bites etc., it was used as an inhalant to treat headaches and was also taken internally to treat colds, sore throats and various other complaints [257].

Autres usages

  • The balsamic resin 'Balm of Gilead'[11, 46] or 'Canada Balsam' according to other reports[64, 226, 238] is obtained during July and August from blisters in the bark or by cutting pockets in the wood [222].
  • Another report says that it is a turpentine [171].
  • The term Canada Balsam is a misnomer because balsams are supposed to contain benzoic and cinnamic acids, both absent from the Canada oleoresin [269].
  • Turpentine is also a misnomer, implying that the oleoresin is entirely steam volatile .
  • Actually it contains 70 - 80% resin, only 16 - 20% volatile oil [269].
  • Canada Balsam yields 15 - 25% volatile oil, the resin being used for caulking and incense [269].
  • It is used medicinally and in dentistry, also in the manufacture of glues, candles and as a cement for microscopes and slides - it has a high refractive index resembling that of glass [11, 46, 64, 82, 222, 226, 238].
  • The pitch has also been used as a waterproofing material for the seams of canoes [257].
  • The average yield is about 8 - 10 oz per tree [171].
  • The resin is also a fixative in soaps and perfumery [171, 238].
  • "Turpentine" is usually collected during July-August by breaking the turpentine blisters into small metal cans with sharp-pointed lids .
  • Trees are then allowed to recuperate for 1 - 2 years before being harvested again [269].
  • The leaves and young branches are used as a stuffing material for pillows etc - they impart a pleasant scent[46, 61, 257] and also repel moths [169].
  • The leaves contain an average of 0.65% essential oil, though it can go up to 1.4% or even higher [269].
  • One analysis of the essential oils reports 14.6% bornyl acetate, 36.1% b-pinene, 11.1% 3-carene, 11.1% limonene, 6.8% camphene, and 8.4% a-pinene [269].
  • To harvest the oil, it would appear that the branches should be snipped off younger trees in early spring [269].
  • Fifteen year old trees yield 70% more leaf oil than 110-year-old trees; oil yields are highest in January - March and September, they are lowest from April to August [269].
  • A thread can be made from the roots [257].
  • Wood - light, soft, coarse grained, not strong, not very durable .
  • Weighs 24lb per cubic foot [235].
  • Used mainly for pulp, it is not used much for lumber except in the manufacture of crates etc [46, 82, 226, 229].
  • The wood is commercially valuable for timber even though it is relatively soft, weak, and perishable [269].
  • Balsam fir is used in the US for timber and plywood, and is the mainstay of the pulp wood industry in the Northeast .
  • The wood, which is rich in pitch, burns well and can be used as a kindling [257].

Culture

  • Prefers a good moist but not water-logged soil [1].
  • Pousse bien dans les sols très argileux .
  • Very shade tolerant, especially when young[81, 126], but growth is slower in dense shade [81].
  • Intolerant of atmospheric pollution [1].
  • Prefers slightly acid conditions down to a pH of about5[200], though the cultivar 'Hudsonia' is more tolerant of alkaline conditions [238].
  • Prefers growing on a north-facing slope [200].
  • A shallow-rooted plant, making it vulnerable to high winds [229].
  • Balsam fir is estimated to tolerate an annual precipitation of 60 to 150cm, an annual temperature range of 5 to 12°C, and a pH of 4.5 to 7.5 [269].
  • The balsam fir is a fast-growing tree in its native environment[229], but it is fairly short-lived and slow growing in Britain, becoming ungainly after about 20 years [11, 64, 81].
  • It grows best in the Perthshire valleys of Scotland [11, 185].
  • New growth takes place from late May to the end of July [185].
  • Trees are very cold hardy but are often excited into premature growth in mild winters and this new growth is susceptible to damage by late frosts [11].
  • Female strobili may be wholly or partially aborted up to 6 to 8 weeks after bud burst by late spring frosts [269].
  • Pollen dispersal can be reduced by adverse weather [269].
  • Trees should be planted into their permanent positions when they are quite small, between 30 and 90cm in height .
  • Les arbres trop âgés se porteront mal et ne se développeront pas pendant plusieurs années .
  • Cela affecte aussi dramatiquement le dévelopement des racines et la résistance au vent [200].
  • Trees have a thin bark and are therefore susceptible to forest fires [229].
  • This species is closely related to A. fraseri [11].
  • Plants are strongly outbreeding, self-fertilized seed usually grows poorly [200].
  • Ils s'hybrident librement avec les autres membres du genre [200].
  • The cones break up on the tree and if seed is required it should be harvested before the cones break up in early autumn [80].
  • Whilst the typical species is too large for most gardens, there are some named slow-growing dwarf forms that can be grown [238].
  • Whilst these will not provide the resin, their leaves can be used medicinally [K].
  • The leaves are strongly aromatic of balsam when crushed [185].
  • The tree is sometimes grown and used as a 'Christmas tree' [226].

Propagation

  • Seed - sow early February in a greenhouse or outdoors in March [78].
  • Germination is often poor, usually taking about 6 - 8 weeks [78].
  • Stratification is said to produce a more even germination so it is probably best to sow the seed in a cold frame as soon as it is ripe in the autumn [80, 113].
  • Stored seeds should be moist stratified 14 - 28 days at 1 - 5°C, though fresh seed may be sown in autumn without stratification, with target seedling densities in the nursery ca 450 - 500/m2, often mulched with sawdust .
  • The seed remains viable for up to 5 years if it is well stored [113].
  • When large enough to handle, prick the seedlings out into individual pots and grow them on for at least their first winter in pots .
  • Plantez les à leurs positions définitives à la fin du printemps ou au début de l'été, après les dernières gelées .
  • Of slow initial growth, the stock is usually outplanted as 2- to 3-year-old seedlings or 3- to 4-year-old transplants .
  • .
  • Alternatively, if you have sufficient seed, it is possible to sow in an outdoor seedbed .
  • One report says that it is best to grow the seedlings on in the shade at a density of about 550 plants per square metre[78] whilst another report says that they are best grown on in a sunny position [80].
  • Trees often self-layer in the wild[226], so this might be a means of increasing named varieties in cultivation [K].

Calendrier

En fleur
5
Maturité des graines
9 - 10
En feuille
1 - 12

Pollinisation

Type de fleur
Monoïque (des fleurs mâles et des fleurs femelles peuvent se trouver sur le même plant)
Auto-fertile
Oui
Pollinisateurs
Vent

Divers

Pollution
Non
Autres réferences
[11, 43, 200]

Réferences

[1] F. Chittendon. RHS Dictionary of Plants plus Supplement. 1956 1951.
Comprehensive listing of species and how to grow them. Somewhat outdated, it has been replaces in 1992 by a new dictionary (see [200]).
[4] Grieve. A Modern Herbal. 1984.
Not so modern (1930's?) but lots of information, mainly temperate plants.
[11] Bean. W. Trees and Shrubs Hardy in Great Britain. Vol 1 - 4 and Supplement. 1981.
A classic with a wealth of information on the plants, but poor on pictures.
[43] Fernald. M. L. Gray's Manual of Botany. 1950.
A bit dated but good and concise flora of the eastern part of N. America.
[46] Uphof. J. C. Th. Dictionary of Economic Plants. 1959.
An excellent and very comprehensive guide but it only gives very short descriptions of the uses without any details of how to utilize the plants. Not for the casual reader.
[64] Howes. F. N. Vegetable Gums and Resins.
A very good book dealing with the subject in a readable way.
[78] Sheat. W. G. Propagation of Trees, Shrubs and Conifers. 1948.
A bit dated but a good book on propagation techniques with specific details for a wide range of plants.
[80] McMillan-Browse. P. Hardy Woody Plants from Seed. 1985.
Does not deal with many species but it is very comprehensive on those that it does cover. Not for casual reading.
[81] Rushforth. K. Conifers. 1987.
Deals with conifers that can be grown outdoors in Britain. Good notes on cultivation and a few bits about plant uses.
[82] Sargent. C. S. Manual of the Trees of N. America. 1965.
Two volumes, a comprehensive listing of N. American trees though a bit out of date now. Good details on habitats, some details on plant uses. Not really for the casual reader.
[101] Turner. N. J. and Szczawinski. A. Edible Wild Fruits and Nuts of Canada. 1978.
A very readable guide to some wild foods of Canada.
[105] Tanaka. T. Tanaka's Cyclopaedia of Edible Plants of the World. 1976.
The most comprehensive guide to edible plants I've come across. Only the briefest entry for each species, though, and some of the entries are more than a little dubious. Not for the casual reader.
[113] Dirr. M. A. and Heuser. M. W. The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation. 1987.
A very detailed book on propagating trees. Not for the casual reader.
[169] Buchanan. R. A Weavers Garden.
Covers all aspects of growing your own clothes, from fibre plants to dyes.
[171] Hill. A. F. Economic Botany. 1952.
Not very comprehensive, but it is quite readable and goes into some a bit of detail about the plants it does cover.
[177] Kunkel. G. Plants for Human Consumption. 1984.
An excellent book for the dedicated. A comprehensive listing of latin names with a brief list of edible parts.
[183] Facciola. S. Cornucopia - A Source Book of Edible Plants. 1990.
Excellent. Contains a very wide range of conventional and unconventional food plants (including tropical) and where they can be obtained (mainly N. American nurseries but also research institutes and a lot of other nurseries from around the world.
[185] Mitchell. A. F. Conifers in the British Isles. 1975.
A bit out of date (first published in 1972), but an excellent guide to how well the various species of conifers grow in Britain giving locations of trees.
[200] Huxley. A. The New RHS Dictionary of Gardening. 1992. 1992.
Excellent and very comprehensive, though it contains a number of silly mistakes. Readable yet also very detailed.
[212] Craighead. J., Craighead. F. and Davis. R. A Field Guide to Rocky Mountain Wildflowers 1963.
Excellent little pocket guide to the area, covering 590 species and often giving details of their uses.
[213] Weiner. M. A. Earth Medicine, Earth Food. 1980.
A nice book to read though it is difficult to look up individual plants since the book is divided into separate sections dealing with the different medicinal uses plus a section on edible plants. Common names are used instead of botanical.
[222] Foster. S. & Duke. J. A. A Field Guide to Medicinal Plants. Eastern and Central N. America. 1990.
A concise book dealing with almost 500 species. A line drawing of each plant is included plus colour photographs of about 100 species. Very good as a field guide, it only gives brief details about the plants medicinal properties.
[226] Lauriault. J. Identification Guide to the Trees of Canada 1989.
Very good on identification for non-experts, the book also has a lot of information on plant uses.
[229] Elias. T. The Complete Trees of N. America. Field Guide and Natural History. 1980.
A very good concise guide. Gives habitats, good descriptions, maps showing distribution and a few of the uses. It also includes the many shrubs that occasionally reach tree proportions.
[235] Britton. N. L. Brown. A. An Illustrated Flora of the Northern United States and Canada 1970.
Reprint of a 1913 Flora, but still a very useful book.
[238] Bown. D. Encyclopaedia of Herbs and their Uses. 1995.
A very well presented and informative book on herbs from around the globe. Plenty in it for both the casual reader and the serious student. Just one main quibble is the silly way of having two separate entries for each plant.
[245] Genders. R. Scented Flora of the World. 1994.
An excellent, comprehensive book on scented plants giving a few other plant uses and brief cultivation details. There are no illustrations.
[257] Moerman. D. Native American Ethnobotany 1998.
Very comprehensive but terse guide to the native uses of plants. Excellent bibliography, fully referenced to each plant, giving a pathway to further information. Not for the casual reader.
[269] Duke. J. Handbook of Energy Crops 1983.
Published only on the Internet, excellent information on a wide range of plants.

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